Friday, 27 February 2009

Bogota, Leticia and the boat journey to Manaus

Fortunately the next day in Bogota was much brighter and although it was still not as hot as the Caribbean it was about perfect for city walking! We started with a visit to the Police museum which might sound an odd choice but it´s actually really interesting and you get a free, private guided tour from one of the young men doing their national service. The museum includes a big section on the life of Pablo Escobar and the Medellin cartel all the way up to his eventual capture and fairly brutal death (and weirdly includes his cousin´s Harley Davidson!). We then visited the Botero museum that features lots of paintings by the Colombian artist (and a few others by Monet, Gaugin and Dali). The next morning we took a cable car ride to the top of Cerro Montserrat, a big hill behind that city that has amazing views over the whole of Bogota. In the afternoon we visited the gold museum which was huge (and full of gold, surprisingly....).
The following day and it was time to jump back on a plane (oh the luxury of being able to travel long distances in short times) down to the Amazon part of Colombia to a town called Leticia. The area is known as the triple frontier as it´s where Colombia, Brazil and Peru meet. You can easily walk from Leticia into the neighbouring Brazilian town of Tabatinga without any immigration hassle (unless you plan to travel further into either country). And you can hope on a boat over the other side of the Amazon river to the Island of Santa Rosa which belongs to Peru. We arrived happy to back in the sweltering heat and immediately got down to arranging a jungle tour for the next day. We opted for the slightly more luxurious jungle lodge option over the hardcore trekking and camping in the jungle option, this is a honeymoon after all. Our hostel owner presented us with these fat maggot-like creatures for our first breakfast, we politely declined.....
And so after a earlyish night (including a short stroll into Brazil!) we were up early the next day and down to the port in Tabatinga to meet our boatman, Costa. He took us up river for about an hour and a half over to the Peruvian side where we met our guide Roberto in a really small riverside village called Porto Alegre. After some dolphin spotting he took us briefly back to his village so we could see the local school (no jobs for Jo though unfortunately...).
After this we transferred boats and got into a proper canoe (only oars, no outboard, damn!) and started to paddle through a little inlet off the Amazon. It was hot work but totally amazing as we realised we were now experiencing the jungle proper, and to really hammer the point home it wasn´t long until we spotted our first tarantula sitting on a leaf about 2 feet from our boat! Eventually (after about an hours rowing and tarantula dodging) we emerged out onto the Lake Marasha, home to the Reserva Marasha and our lovely jungle lodge.
After hopping ashore, checking out our cute little room and dropping off our bags, we were back onto the lake for a proper tour around the perimeter. The guide had packed four bananas and we initially thought it was a little snack for us, but we paddled to the other side of the lake, nosed the boat into a hedge and the guide asked us to hold the bananas out in front of us and preceded to whistle. In a matter of seconds, loads of small Titi monkeys were climbing all over us tucking into the bananas! (Not sure on the ethics of feeding the ´wild´animals in reserve but it was still good fun! We did turn down the chance of paying to hold a jaguar the following day!) Once they´d demolished our offerings they were soon back off into the trees leaving us to a relaxing afternoon on the water.

The following day we went on a 4 hour walk into the jungle, which as it´s coming to a high water season, meant even our wellies were pretty useless as we went nervously wading waist deep in water! Unfortunately we didn´t see too much in the way of wildlife (or maybe that can be counted as fortunate given the venomous nature of alot of the creatures in the jungle!) although there were plenty of mosquito´s managing to bite us through our clothing! After arriving back at the lodge and applying plenty of bite cream we were back out on the lake for a fruitless but very relaxing fishing session.
That evening after dinner we went out onto the lake to try and spot some cayman. We think we just about saw one beady red eye from a distance!

The next morning we had a bit of a relax sitting by the lake and decided to have another crack at fishing, but alas it was another fruitless venture! By afternoon it was time to leave and to give us another type of experience, the heavens decided to open, reminding us that we were definitely in a rainforest.
The next day we flew around Leticia and Tabatinga on the back of motorbikes or mototaxis (a cheap but risky way of getting around) sorting out money changing and passport stamping. We then packed up and went down to the port in Tabatinga to board our riverboat that would be our home for the next 4 days and 3 nights on the journey to Manaus. We strung up our hammocks, and proceeded to have a very chilled out few days admiring the scenery. The food was actually pretty good and there was also a bar onboard so all was well!
We arrived in Manaus on the Friday morning and were pleased that we had a flight out of there that same evening as the city is not particularly attractive.

We´re now in Salvador ready to put some more beach miles on the clock!

Hope you´re all okay.

Lots of love.

Al and Jo xxx

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

Taganga and the Tayrona National Park

We arrived in Taganga courtesy of the laziest bus service ever, we were picked up outside our hostel in Cartagena and dropped off right outside our hostel in Taganga after the 5 hour drive! Taganga is a little fishing village over the hill from the next main town of Santa Marta, and has a beach (not the cleanest in the world) but also the option to walk up the coast to some slightly nicer, less crowded beaches. We were staying in a hostel called La Casa de Felipe which is definitely one of the best places we´ve stayed in, made even better by the fairly constant 35 degree heat! On arrival we made the sensible decision to spend a couple of weeks here (with a visit to Tayrona National Park wedged in the middle!). Obviously we weren´t the only people to be impressed with the place as the hostel is full of people also making extended stops here!We met loads of sound people, gave the blender an excellent workout making rum based cocktails and also had two fish-fest evenings involving masses of a fish similar to tuna and on the second night a couple of gigantic lobsters (all purchased straight off the beach!)!


Our friend The Sheriff haggling with the lobster salesman........!


The two beauties ready to be boiled.....


(Animal rights activists look away now!) A scene of lobster carnage.......!

We also discovered the best smoothie known to man, Oreo cookie and banana, best consumed on a lilo floating on the Caribbean! After our first week in Taganga we took a trip to the Tayrona National Park a few miles up the coast.It´s a section of gorgeous tropical beaches separated from civilisation by lush jungle, so after a 1 hour journey by car to the entrance you have to hike for an hour through the jungle before stepping out onto something that resembles a scene from LOST!
The rocks and currents are fairly treacherous so swimming spots have to be chosen with care and there´s clear evidence that ships are at risk too....During our three days there we did a nice hike back into the jungle to some ruins called Pueblito and plenty of lying around soaking up more of that 35 degree sunshine. Once again we were sleeping in hammocks which is definitely not as comfortable as it sounds.We did however get to justify the purchase of our mosquito head-nets and remained bite-free for the duration of our stay, although this was at the expense of looking slightly ridiculous!



After our stay we returned to Taganga for more sun/rum/fish based fun at Casa Felipe for another 5 days.


Yesterday we had to wave goodbye to the Caribbean and hopped on a flight down to Bogota. We were greeted by some very UK-like pouring rain and chilly winds and were tempted to hop straight back on the next flight to the coast. However, we decided to stay and are now in another nice new hostel about to step out for some big city sightseeing!


Hope all is well.


Lots of love.

Al and Jo x x x

Friday, 30 January 2009

Cartagena and Playa Blanca

We arrived in the mid-morning furnace heat of Cartagena De Indias and unfortunately, due a small bus mishap, had to carry our backpacks for a mile or so to our hostel in the Getsemani district of the old town! Cartagena is a beautiful walled city with lots of Spanish architecture and it sits right on the Caribbean coast. We spent a nice few days strolling around the old town soaking up the atmosphere.One day we took a trip out to visit a mud volcano called Totumo. The volcano is only 20 metres high and the small crater at the top is filled with warm mud heated by gases below! It´s a really strange sensation as you step in and feel really buoyant! Any attempt to try and swim seems futile and you have to rely on some poor chap who works in there to push you in to position! After a brief massage you then step out to let the mud dry on you which doesn´t take long in 40 degree heat before climbing down to the lagoon next door to clean all the mud off.
After a few days of being in the beautiful but hot oven of Cartagena, it was time to head to what is said to be Colombia´s nicest beach Playa Blanca. The journey there is quite interesting as it requires a 45 minute local bus ride, 5 mins over a canal on a canoe then 20 mins on the back of a motorbike which delivers you direct to the beach!As we stepped on to the white sand though we realised it had definitely been worth it - finally we were on a `honeymoon beach´! The beach is of the classic Caribbean style (warm crystal clear water, palm trees etc!) and the accommodation for our two night stay was in hammocks right on the beach! It was an excellent few days and after another night in Cartagena tonight we´re off up the coast to a place called Taganga for more of the same. Really disappointed to be missing all that snow.........

Love to all.

Jo and Al x

Monday, 26 January 2009

Cali, Salento and Medellin

We travelled up to the north of Ecuador and spent a couple of days in Atacames, Ecuador`s very own Blackpool! Then we flew from Esmeraldas into Cali for our first taste of Colombia. Cali is a bustling city and is supposedly the plastic surgery capital of the world, and after strolling round the city for a while we think we can safely say this title is deserved! We visited Cali zoo which was quite good as far as zoos go although after seeing so many different animals in the wild in Galapagos it was a little tame!From Cali we travelled to the coffee region, or the Zona Cafetera, to a beautiful little town called Salento. The countryside is so green and lush, not unlike good old Britain, although the massive wax palm trees are a constant reminder we haven´t accidentally ended up in Wales! We stayed in a lovely hostel called The Plantation House owned by an English guy and his Colombian wife. It used to be a coffee finca and is set on the top of a hill at the side of town with incredible views (especially from the hammocks at the bottom of the garden!). He also recently bought a coffee farm down the lane that we visited which again is stunning. One of the benefits to staying in the hostals here is free great coffee available 24/7, although having consumed about a gallon between us on our first day and not getting a great deal of sleep we learned to moderate our intake! We took one of the local jeeps (that take the place of buses in this rural area!) out to the Valle de Cocora and did a lovely hike (if a little muddy!) up to a place called Acaime.There`s a simple little cafe set in the cloud forest and there are hundreds of different coloured hummingbirds constantly buzzing around.
On our final night the owner asked if we were going to head into town to play `Tejo´. He explained that it was like boule or petanque but things are made more interesting by the addition of little paper triangle targets that are filled with gunpowder! Hearing this we decided we needed to try it out, the added bonus being it´s free to play as long as you buy some beer! We walked down to the Tejo bar with a couple we´d met a few minutes previously (hello Siobhan and Anthony!) who were also filled with intrigue to find the owner only too willing to show us the ropes (and ply us with beer!). The game is great fun (even better when you modify it by adding a few more triangle targets to make bigger explosions!) and makes me think that the French really need to re-write the rules of petanque!
We then bussed it from Salento up to the once infamous city of Medellin where we stayed last night on our way up to the Caribbean coast (and a few weeks of lazing around in the sunshine!). From the little we´ve seen of Medellin it´s no longer the danger zone it once was and everyone we´ve met seems really welcoming and friendly. In fact Colombia as a whole has, so far, been so welcoming and great to travel round!

Keep on keeping in touch!

Lots of love,

Jo and Al x x

Sunday, 18 January 2009

Rafting in Banos

Just a few rafting pics.. can spot us amongst the rapids? Al is at the front with a blue helmet and I´m sensibly it the back in yellow.
It was excellent!!!

Thursday, 15 January 2009

More pics from the Galapagos

We were about the only two people on the trip who hadn´t invested in some kind of underwater camera techonology. However the kind people who had have sent us some of their pics (thanks Ronit and Kelly!).

Monday, 12 January 2009

Quito, Banos and Riobamba

We spent a few days in Quito visiting various places recommended to us (thanks Sal, love the Magic Bean Cafe!). We did plenty of walking around the older and newer parts of the city. However we did go against her advice to visit the Mitad Del Mundo museum that marks the Equator, although it´s about 200 metres off the real line!It was a pretty bad museum but has to be done for the photos! We also visited a better museum next door that is apparently on the actual equator and randomly bumped into some friends from our Galapagos trip (Ed, Lynne and Andrew!). Here we had some demonstrations of water running out of a bowl both clockwise and anti-clockwise depending which side of the equator the bowl was placed.Our friends kindly gave us a lift back into Quito and we stopped on the way back to go up in a cable car that climbs up to the top of a mountain giving amazing views of the city.They also very kindly took pity on us as we were having credit card issues and took us out for a meal in the evening (thank you so so much!).

We then left Quito and travelled down to Banos. The Foreign Office website actually advises against all travel to Banos due to the fact of very active volcano that sits next door to it, however this had the benefit of making accommodation pretty cheap! From here we hired a little buggy and had a hair raising drive down the Ruta de Cascadas (Road of Waterfalls, yes our spanish is coming along nicely....)) to visit the Pailon del Diablo, an impressive, massive waterfall!The journey was made slightly more hair raising when Jo attempted a 3 point turn in the end of a tunnel on a bend, after this she was relegated to passenger/navigator duties, but this didn´t make for any more of a safe journey as she made repeated efforts to grab the steering wheel and plenty of shouting about my flawless driving.....(Jo is daring me to make some comparison with her Mum here, but I´ll refrain...) We could actually climb (following an impromptu bit of caving!) up so we could stand behind the water as it came thundering past which was amazing.

We also decided to do our rafting wedding gift (thanks to Dan and Cecilia!) here on the Rio Pastaza as opposed to Tena as we probably won´t be visiting there. It was the first time that either of us had done it and it was excellent! The rapids were grade III-IV although this doesn´t mean a great deal to us, it was pretty hairy though! We managed to make it to the bottom intact anyway which is the main thing!


We also did a night trip up to try and see the volcano from the other side of the valley, however we didn´t see it for long as some thick clouds rolled in! We visited some thermal springs too where you can alternate between standing underneath a freezing waterfall and lounging in a 45 degree pool!


After a few more days relaxing (well as relaxed as you can be next to a volcano!) in Banos we left to do the Devil´s Nose train ride from Riobamba. Riobamba wasn´t particularly nice and we stayed in what we rated as the worst hostel yet, however there was a dancing parade that passed under our window so it wasn´t all bad.Unfortunately the train that makes the precarious journey clinging to cliff edges was broken so we had to get another bus further down the line to a place called Aloisi. From here we could take a funny little one carriage tourist train down the most scenic part of the route, made more fun by the fact that you can sit on the roof!

Next came decision time, either to continue south to Cuenca or to re-route to the coast. We´d decided that we´d done plenty of altitude city tours and more beach time was in order so the coast won. We´re now back in Montanita and are going to continue heading north up the coast. Then we fly into Colombia which wasn´t part of our original semi-plan but we keep hearing how excellent it is so we thought we better try it out.


Missing you all.


Lots of love,


Jo and Al x x